Astrological symbols and Zodiac signs in designer creativity
Zodiac signs, astrological symbols conceals in themselves a considerable quantity of the coded information. Everyone, who though a few sign with astrology, can confirm it. The way of a tracing of an astrological symbol was formed within millenia. It also depended on existing interpretation of influence of heavenly bodies on the events occurring on the Earth. And today this theme continues to inspire many modern artists, sculptors and designers. For me as the expert in fashion trend forecasting, the greatest interest represents reflection of this idea in clothes collections.
Creativity of designers bears the impress of Zodiac sign, and also features of an individual horoscope. The relation to innovative ideas, the non-standard approach defines Uranus, and adherence to traditions — Saturn. We considered this theme in detail in Veronica's Tkachenko article «Horoscopes of fashion designers» (Astrolog, 2000, №4), in Veronica's Tkachenko book «The Fashion and Beauty Astrology» (RIPOL-CLASSIC, 2006), in the report at the XVI Astrological Moscow conference in October, 2011 and also in publication Fashion Astrology: Julia Dalakian's collection for MoDaMo at Fashion-Astrology.com.
Let's begin our story with the most known and scandalous person of the XX-th century, Elsa Schiaparelli. The talented environment has left the mark on formation of the person of the well-known designer. Uncle of Elsa, Giovanni Schiaparelli, was the well-known astronomer. His name remained in the history thanks to opening of channels on Mars. It has carried away young Elsa stories about solar system. He often repeated that birthmarks on a cheek of Elsa remind constellation of the Big Dipper. It would be strange with similar parting words to expect traditional decisions in art. And it has really occurred. Models of Elsa Schiaparelli are the present art objects, full of irony, bright creative thought and talent. Many people know her dress with drawing a kind of the lobster, not deprived of sexual implied sense, a hat in the form of shoes and other original ideas considerably advancing time.
In the mid-thirties of the XX-th century Elsa Schiaparelli has presented the collection «Astrology». The dresses embroidered by Zodiac signs, pictures of Moon and Sun have been presented in it. But if the designer has addressed for consultation to the astrologer annoying oversights wouldn't be admitted in clothes dressing. Look yourself. Zodiac signs embroidered in front part of the dress, are picked up in a random way. Most likely, the designer was guided only by external similarity of astrological symbols. The buckle on a dress belt represents a symbol of Jupiter which rests against an arrow of Mars. Two man's planets nearby — there aren't any intrigue. The simplest variant would be Venus and Mars. But I would choose Saturn with Venus. First, the waist is an area under control of Saturn and Venus. Secondly, symbolism of these planets simply draws «qualitative», stable love relations which for the sake of external decorative effect can be fastened a coquettish corbel.
It is necessary to note some successful works, is closer to our time. In the mid-eighties the fashion designer, the designer and sculptor Christel Marott (1919-1992) has created sculptures of twelve astrological Zodiac signs. Reflecting unique features of each sign, twelve girls appear in the inimitable, sensual style combining innocence and a decadence. After two decades, the Royal Copenhagen company has started to make serially «Zodiac signs» by Christel Marott, having executed them in the unglazed porcelain more known as «biscuit».
Modern designers often use idea of Zodiac signs in clothes creation. And then fashionable critics write with pleasure about unusual treatment of images and mark innovation of a collection. And it is no wonder, after all the theme of space, images of the Zodiac is the present Klondike, a gold mine in which everyone can try the luck. Create, try, and you will be rewarded according to the deserts!
I will result a number of other examples. For many fashionable critics «The Zodiac» collection created in 2004 by the Kherson fashion designer by Natalia Statsenko («Star Images» Fashion house) was remembered. Twelve signs in vision of the fashion designer have pleased me with unexpected design finds and an innovative combination of colors.
Designer Nadezhda Ajupova also it was noted by the researches on astrological soil. In 2007 it has presented a collection «Zodiac signs». On a plan of the designer, each detail of a dress should underline features of character of Zodiac sign. Therefore in the collection handwork elements, incrustation with Svarovski crystals is used. According to Nadezhda, this collection has managed to it in 3-4 thousand dollars (accordingly to prices of 2007). The first show has taken place in Kazan, and then in Europe.
Rustam Iskhakov, the Kazan fashion designer, in 2008 has created a collection which has organically continued a sports theme. This time Rustam has offered jumpsuits from cashmere with velvet prints: Zodiac signs in anime style.
Space motives and Zodiac images in the creativity often are used by Masha Tsigal. Her collections of 2005-2007 and especially «Five elements» collection caused associations with East calendar were remembered for me.
In my opinion, the idea of the Zodiac is beautifully ans spiritually reflected in a series of the well-known works of computer graphics performed by Japanese computer artist Yutaka Kagaya. Zodiac pictures Design art by Kagaya became subjects of wide application in manufacture and dressing of a modern home decoration (pillows, coverlets, ware, etc.), frequently — without observance of copyrights. But, as we know, usually copy such things that really represents certain value.
The artist and illustrator Andrey Klenin is known as the author of illustrations in polygraphy. In the digital pictures the artist manages to combine fantasy and high tech elements. Among them there are very bright and romantic «Zodiac signs» series made by the artist by request of «Lisa» magazine. The girls representing Zodiac signs, appear in different attires, with various hairdresses and flower bouquets.
Carl Lagerfeld in a collection for Chanel on Haute couture Week in Paris, in 2010, has created a huge figure of the Lion, favourite symbol of Mademoiselle Coco (Coco Chanel is Leo by horoscope). Thus, it has provoked occurrence «the king of fashion jungle» of nickname. Unfortunately, on it scale of creativity of the designer comes to an end. Except the Lion, the maestro hasn't presented anything interesting. In reply to questions of journalists Lagerfeld tried to laugh the matter off: «the Idea of a collection has come to me in a dreadful dream».
As journalists mark, Italian designer Giuseppe Zanotti in creation of a new footwear collection for a season Spring-Summer 2012 derived inspiration from astrology too. As a result of creative searches there was a limited line of «Zodiac signs» sandals. Tiny ornaments in the form of Zodiac signs created manually in Italy became a collection highlight, are executed from red metal and decorated by large crystals. «I always adored ornaments and jewels standing at women. To underline grace of lines and forms — here it is my way to admire women beauty, — the designer admits. — I mentioned this theme much earlier, using in footwear dressing the figures of fishes inlaid with stones, birds and insects. Today women show more and more interest to astrology, and it should be reflected in my collection».
In my opinion, the collection by Giuseppe Zanotti does not differ with any originality. In Fashion Astrology there is a set of ways which can be used for reflection of idea of Zodiac signs in footwear. At least it is enough to take division of signs into elements. There are many variations of metallic color. For Fire elements it was possible to choose gold color, for Earth — bronze, for Water — silver and for Air — bluish platinum. There is enough even these characteristics to create different kinds of sandals which differ in sole registration, in features of an interlacing of thongs, in height and a fastener arrangement, etc.
As we see, Zodiac signs are used by designers of any status and possibilities. The difference consists only in that, how much money is spent for manufacturing of a Zodiac symbol.
In competent use of astrological symbolism I give a Palm to the Mexican artist, sculptor Sergio Bustamante. The surrealist and the storyteller, the metaphysicist and the philosopher, he became known in the seventies of the last century thanks to the unusual sculptures. I have visited Sergio Bustamante’s workshop in the Mexican city Guadalajara and have observed a manufacture process of art subjects. Creations of Bustamante are solar and opened, as well as his native land — solar Mexico, the country of an eternal holiday and eternal summer, infinite beaches and warm inflow waves, stirring melodies and passionate declarations of love. Leading motives in his sculptures, figures and jewelry are images of Sun and Moon. The master can't tell, how many moons and suns he has made. But all of them are different, with imperceptible nuances in a smile, a pose, a ducking, etc. In his sculptures heavenly bodies stay gather in the company: often noisy, not less often thoughtful. The artist also creates collections of stylish jewelry and fashionable accessories. Each his work causes explosion of emotions and gives an impulse for thought game. It was one of the most marvelous impressions during my visit of Mexico and fashion forecasting workshop. Most of all I like the smiling and fervent Sun.
What conclusion we can make of all told? It is necessary to be the astrologer, at least, for deep and full reflection of space influences. But what to do, if you have chosen other way? Then it makes sense to address for consultation of Fashion Astrology expert. I had a successful experience of cooperation with designers in creation of astrological collection of tiny hats, women blouses and a make-up for Zodiac signs. I hope, this list can be continued in the nearest future.
It is not necessary to be afraid that collections will be similar against each other, as twins-brothers. Much depends on the executor, on his hallmark, on features of his individual horoscope. Meanwhile there is Fashion Astrology which successfully exists during many years and allows designers to find their individual way in creativity, to predict fashionable tendencies for some years forward, and also to raise profitableness of business in the fashion industry.
All possibilities of our cooperation can be discussed at consultation of the astrologer Veronica Tkachenko.